"Even if body surfing were not the purest form of riding waves, the most fundamental test of man against ocean, the hairiest water activity going and, as someone once said, "the closest thing to the great trauma of being born"—all of which it probably is—the Wedge would be one of nature's finest showcases..."
based on my semester in spain @ chaminade university of honolulu in 1986...one of the most outstanding and liberating experiences of my life..by keeping it short (one semester) i kept it "fresh" forever...i left because it was "too good to be true" and wanted to keep it that way in my mind forever..i lived in hale pua dorm , ron foo was my roommate...ed durkin became a friend among others
